Nomad Spring - Week 5 (Arizona-Colorado)

Part 6 of blog posts from my 7 week road trip!

On the road by 5 am Saturday, Brownloaf was carrying me north for the first time in a month.  Back through Globe, AZ, this time following Arizona route 77 across the Salt River Canyon to the interestingly-named town of Show Low.

Descending the magnificent Salt River Canyon.

Ascending the other side of the canyon - big climb!

Continuing onward, Petrified Forest National Park was a worthwhile detour.  Seemingly in the middle of nowhere, there is a national park with a lot to see!

Petrified trees abound!  Video clip above is before reaching the park-vast open area!

After entering New Mexico, my 6th state of the trip, I passed through Gallup and the mighty Navajo reservation before finally reaching Colorado and the town of Durango.

Cruising across the NW corner of New Mexico.

Durango is a fun outdoorsy, kinda touristy, little town in the rugged San Juan mountains.  I was fortunate to be able to reacquaint myself with an old bike racing friend, Cody Cupp, who took me on an evening ride with his friends.  We saw the popular Durango-Silverton historic steam train multiple times on our ride-exciting for me (train nerd).

Home of Ned Overend, Todd Wells, and other cycling legends; Durango riding was a blast!

Thanks for the tour ride, Cody!

FS campground just outside Durango.

Come Sunday morning, I was back on the road with Brownloaf reliably carrying me further into the mountains of Colorado.  First stop-the hot springs village of Pagosa Springs.

Pagosa Springs with resorts and hot springs lining the river.

Highest elevation yet!

After crossing 10,856 ft Wolf Creek Pass, I continued across Colorado with a stress-free southern tailwind.  Second stop of the day: the town of Salida.

Great beer and food at Soulcraft brewery in Salida.

I’ve been to Salida years before and seen the mountain bike trails from a distance.  Riding them was great, and I managed to put together a fantastic quick 20+ mile loop.  The trails were mostly fast and roller coaster flowy, but with technical rock challenges as well.

Fun "Dude" themed trails in Salida.

View towards Monarch Crest from upper Salida trails.

The final leg of the day was from Salida north through Buena Vista and Leadville to I-70 east.  It only took a few minutes on the interstate (yuck) for me to make the decision to get off and take the old highway over Loveland Pass instead.

Leadville - the highest city in N America.

Loveland Pass would be the highest elevation reached on the trip, and highest ever reached by the Brownloaf, at 11,990 ft!  Despite climbing at 20 mph in 2nd gear due to the thin air and steep grade, the Brownloaf performed admirably with no issues.

Loveland Pass at nearly 12k feet above sea level!

Finally across the continental divide, it was a relatively easy journey traversing the Rockies to the mountain town of Nederland, where Martin, dear family friend and father of Jiri, welcomed me into his home.

Settled in for the work week, Martin and I hunkered down as a major storm passed through the mountains, blowing down several trees, knocking out electricity, cellular, and internet.  Fortunately, Martin’s house was not damaged-only his shed and yard were affected by falling pine trees.  Many of his neighbors had trees fall as well, but thankfully nobody was injured.  Winds of over 100 mph were recorded in the area!

After the impressive storm, snow continued to fall on and off throughout the week.  Now I understand why Jiri and Bri choose to live in Tucson until well into May…  Hard to believe I was in 90+ degree heat only a few days earlier.

What it looked like on and off throughout the May week in Nederland.

Martin was an incredible host, cooking delicious Czech-inspired meals every evening after our walk to one of three local breweries.  Later in the week, I got out for a longer run and found the elk herd (see videos below-the elk probably thought I was crazy for running in that weather).  It may have been the quintessential Colorado mountain cabin lifestyle week!

Moose behind Martin's house!

Lots of cleanup work to do after the big storm.

Martin was off to Croatia and the Czech Republic the week after my stay.  It was fun hearing about his trip plans and later seeing his photos from that trip.

On Friday evening, I was back in the Brownloaf heading down the mountains and into the plains of America.  After a quick stop at Trader Joes in Boulder, Brownloaf carried me hastily (60-65mph) north towards Wyoming.

On the road again-Boulder, CO.

Come to find out, Wyoming is one of my favorite states!  More to come…

Nomad Spring - Weeks 3-4 (Tucson-Prescott)

Part 5 of blog posts from my 7 week road trip!

Now in Tucson, AZ it was time for a couple weeks of riding and hanging with friends Jiri and Brianne.  Thanks to them being very gracious hosts, it was a wonderful stay in the sunny desert city surrounded by mountains.

Hard to believe Brown Loaf drove all the way to Tucson, AZ!

The Sonoran desert was abloom!

The fun started with a mountain bike ride on Mount Lemmon.  Very fun descending the dry granite trails weaving through layers of biomes at different elevations.

Climbing Mount Lemmon w/ Jiri and Bri on day 1 in Tucson.

We go way back!

Jiri, "Jirka," enjoying a slab on the Lemmon descent.

Tucson is a surprisingly populated city and there are many breweries.

Compliments to the chefs, Jiri and Bri.

A couple days later, we celebrated Jiri’s birthday with a mountain bike classic ride, the “Lemmon Drop.”  Despite being an oldie, this ride was no joke.  Very technical, rough, and lots of hard ascending; despite the net 10k feet of descending.  It was an unforgettable ride and special day being able to celebrate Jiri’s birthday in-person together.

The day started high above the ~2000 ft desert floor.

There's a ski area at the top of Lemmon!

I love these plants that grow at intermediate elevation.

Come Thursday and we were on the road again, this time in Jiri and Bri’s truck en route to Prescott, AZ for the Whiskey 50 mountain bike race.  The Whiskey 50 is an event that had been on my radar for decades, and one that my dad and I long ago planned to travel to together.  When Jiri invited me to do the race with them, I wasn’t going to turn down the opportunity to make a trip of it, finally race the event, and check out the area for my old man!

Number plate affixed to trusty do-it-all stead.

It was a great event with big attendance, a festival scene, and a fun area.  Prescott is an outdoor town and I got the impression that the Whiskey 50 is the “Prescott Olympics” of the year.

Since moving to Tucson, Jirka forgot what it feels like to ride when it's 55 degrees! lol

Racing these days is bittersweet for me because I’m not prepared the way I used to be.  It definitely requires a different mindset and a focus on having fun, pushing myself, and enjoying the journey.  With that attitude, I felt as though I was back in the early days of teenage bike racing.  Pretty funny that Jiri and I were race buddies who got each other into it at age 16.

The first half of the 50 mile (or was it 45 miles?) race was mostly road, but the second half was mostly fun flowy singletrack.  There were plenty of granite slabs, twists, and turns to make for a good time passing “on your left” or inside the turns for some exciting moments.  It was a race-after all-and good fun!

Our crew!

Congrats to Jirka for winning the amateur race!  For context, I was 40-something place.  There are legit fast racers in the amateur field!

Post-race in Prescott.

Couldn't pass this beer up!

Back to Tucson on Sunday, Jiri showed me the local trails in town.  Even for a hot afternoon, it was a blast ripping along through the undulating desert trails.  An abundance of rocks, flat corners, and views made for a ripping good time!

Lovely trails within Tucson.

The desert was so full of life.

Week 2 in Tucson was relaxing with a couple rides and a trail run with Bri, complete with hill repeats among the saguaros.  After cooling off in the pool in the evenings we enjoyed season 1 of  “Tokyo Vice” while wearing our blue light glasses 🤓

Running through Saguaro "forest" with Bri!

Road riding "the loop" with Jirka.

The road rides sometimes include singletrack!  Just watch out for poles...

Fascinating Iron-Cross Blister Beetle of Tucson/Sonoran Desert.

Come Friday evening, it was our last time together.  Sad to leave the Tucson Oasis and my dear friends, it was necessary to continue the journey and begin heading north.  Ski to Sea was 3 weeks away and I needed to be back in Bellingham to XC ski race in “The Bellingham Olympics.”  

Next destination Colorado!

Nomad Spring - Week 2.5 (Sedona-Tucson)

Part 4 of blog posts from my 7 week road trip!

On the road again, Brown Loaf purring, heading south for Sedona, Arizona!  Beautiful and vast desert, mesas, and mountains.  Such a wonderful drive.

Near Monticello, UT.

Brown Loaf and some of the many mesas of SE Utah.

First destination: Monument Valley, on the border of Utah and Arizona in Navajo Nation.  Seeing this famous vista was well worth the small entry fee to the tribe.

Monument Valley

Next stop was for gas in Kayenta, AZ and 20 mpg was further evidence that the Brown Loaf was running happier after the campsite repairs performed in Moab.

It was fun to drive through Flagstaff, AZ after having recently visited the town for Overland Expo with my friend David of Green Goat Outdoors.  

Stopping at the In-n-Out for lunch was its own experience altogether.  Two queues of traffic snaking through the parking lot, with dozens of employees directing traffic and working the kitchen.  Overwhelming at first, it turned out to be a well-oiled machine and a worthwhile stop.

From Flagstaff it was a serpentine drive down the Oak Creek Canyon into Sedona.  Stopping in the canyon to look for open campsites and a place to cool off in the creek, I was really striking out, however.  The campgrounds were full (despite being early afternoon on a Thursday) and the creek access all required a fee to park at.  Finally finding a free pull-off, I was able to refresh in the creek.

Oak Creek

Brown Loaf looking good and performing well.

Continuing a few miles into the town of Sedona, the busy and expensive theme continued.  Contrasted by mesmerizing natural beauty, I suppose it makes sense that a lot of people-myself included-want to visit this town.

Entering beautiful Sedona, AZ.

Overwhelmed by the traffic, I found the Rotary Park where I could rest, use a bathroom, and do some work from.  There were a few other vans and rigs in the parking lot, probably travelers in the same boat as me.  Scrounging for free parking and a public bathroom-the real truth about vanlife digital nomadism? 🙂

This theme would continue, albeit surrounded by amazing scenery, as I searched for a place to camp.  Heading northwest out of town, I traveled further and further until finally reaching the dispersed camping options on national forest land.  No doubt related to the covid explosion of recreation, the traditional dispersed camping had recently been concentrated into a handful of designated zones, much like campgrounds.  To the frustration of dirt bags like myself, this didn’t leave many places to camp, especially not spots that aren’t in a gravel parking lot resembling a dusty sardine can full of RVs.

What most of the free camping looked like in Sedona...

Fortunately, and thanks to the Brown Loaf’s small size and nimbleness, I was able to reach further back into the juniper forest and find a peaceful slice of my own.

Lucked out finding a slice of my own.

Complete with my own cactus.

Not a bad place to camp, in the end.

Not wanting to lose this spot, I mountain biked directly from camp to the West Sedona trails.  Contrary to being known to be more of the XC style trails of town, these trails were a blast!  So good, in fact, that I rode them again the next morning.

Interesting plant life and fun trails!

"Slickrock" and scenery abound!

It’s clear why Sedona is a mountain biking destination.  Stunning scenery with lush green forest filled with strange trees and cacti, and the distinctive red rocks jutting towards the sky.  Otherworldly for sure.  I will definitely return someday to explore more of the trails.

Hot air balloons Friday morning outside Sedona.

Day 2 riding West Sedona trails.

After my 20 hour stay and morning ride, I was on the road from Sedona downhill towards the town of Cottonwood in search of a swimming hole.  Like Sedona, Cottonwood and the adjacent town of Clarkdale also appeared to be destinations themselves.  There was a wine theme as they are in the Verde Valley AVA-news to me as I did not expect wine regions in Arizona.

Lunch in Cottonwood, AZ.

Trail through cottonwoods to access the Verde River.

Verde River where I cooled off and felt refreshed.

From Cottonwood and the Verde River at a low elevation of 3000-something feet above sea level, I was ready to escape the heat and head back into the mountains to a “sky island,” as Arizonans call them.

The Brown Loaf showed what they are capable of by making it up the biggest climb of the trip so far.  3000 to 8000 feet above sea level in one continuous grade!  Coolant temperature okay, everything the way it should be.

Mogollon Rim at 8000 feet above sea level.

This “sky island” is the Mogollon Rim, a geological feature that spans hundreds of miles and is the southern edge of the Colorado Plateau.  In the Coconino National Forest, the rim has plenty of forest service roads and dispersed camping.

You shall not pass!

The plan was to reach an epic camp spot with a view looking off the edge of the rim.  However, this plan wasn’t to be as there was still deep snow blocking the road on both route options.  Like wine regions, I was again ignorant of Arizona and was not expecting snow!

So close, I could hike in and check out my planned camp spot.

After driving the “rim road” for a few miles, meeting a friendly couple with the cutest teardrop trailer (sorry, no photos), I found a spot to set up camp for the night.

When things don't go as planned, they often work out for the better.

Brown Loaf looking good with Arizona mud.

Taking a look at my map, I was surprised to see a fire lookout indicated near my location.  After bushwhacking through the woods (the road was still snow-covered), I was blown away to find a shuttered fire lookout just above my camp spot!

Fire lookout on the Mogollon Rim!

Bench and viewpoint looking southeast off the rim.

Tribute to hotshot forest fire fighters.

That evening, I was treated to the most memorable sunset of my life as I sat on the lookout stairs under the locked hatch, looking out across the Sonoran Desert, 5000 feet below.

A sunset to remember for life.

On the walk down to camp, I found a large feather, possibly from a Red Tailed Hawk.  A perfect keepsake to remember the evening.

Feather keepsake and new dash ornament.

In the morning, I was pleased to run the Espar heater at 8000 feet while sipping coffee, having a hard time believing how far the Brown Loaf has come since its sad years infested with mice and rotting in the woods.

On the road again and dropping off the rim into beautiful forested communities below, it almost felt like being back in Washington State.  There were even herds of elk!  Yet again, Arizona continues to be full of surprises.

Lovely roads and countryside below the Mogollon Rim.

In the town of Payson, I was treated to a splendid backyard mountain bike ride, often my favorite kind of ride.

Stunning hills of Payson, AZ.

Sometimes the obscure trails are the best ones!

Stacked boulders reminiscent of Joshua Tree.

Great riding in Payson.

From Payson, the easy downhill driving continued on scenic highways.  Next stop Roosevelt Lake, not to be confused with Lake Roosevelt in WA.

Roosevelt Lake - where saguaros meet water.

After Roosevelt Lake was a spontaneous stop at Tonto Cave Dwelling, the first one of its kind that I’ve had the pleasure of seeing, a lunch stop in the town of Globe, and the final stretch of road to Tucson.

Impressive Tonto Cave Dwelling on Earth Day.

What a home!

Final stop of the day - the famous Biosphere 2!  Trees growing inside once tipped over due to lack of root-strengthening-wind.  A lesson for life!

After reaching Tucson and in comical vanagon fashion, the dashboard ventilation fan died in hot afternoon Tucson traffic, only a mile before my destination.

102 F in the van when the fan died!

Reaching the home of dear friends Jiri and Brianne was a surreal experience, having traveled so far from Bellingham in the Brown Loaf.  

Made it to Tucson after nearly 2000 miles!

Klinger was happy to greet a cat guy.

Friends Jiri and Bri who welcomed me into their home.

To be continued…